How to Photograph a Rug for Valuation

The single biggest factor in the speed and accuracy of a rug valuation is photo quality. A smartphone in natural light produces better results than a DSLR in a dark room. Here's exactly what our specialists need — and why each shot matters.

Better photos = better quotes. Specialists can identify origin, age, dye type, knot structure, and condition from high-quality images. The more clearly we can see your rug, the more accurately we can price it.

Shot 1: The Full Front

Lay the rug completely flat — on the floor is best, outside on a dry day in open shade is ideal. The goal is to capture the entire rug in one frame with no cut edges, no curling corners, no furniture on top.

Lighting: Natural, indirect light is best. Avoid direct sunlight which creates harsh shadows and washes out colour. A large window with no direct beam, or outdoor shade, produces the most accurate colour reproduction.

Angle: Shoot from directly above, as perpendicular to the rug as possible. Shooting at an angle creates distortion that makes dimensions and proportions harder to read. Stand on a chair or step if needed for a large rug.

Avoid: Flash photography, which flattens texture and distorts colour. Heavy filters or "enhance" settings on phone cameras. Shooting in dim room lighting — this produces noise and inaccurate colour.

Shot 2: The Full Back (Most Important)

Flip the rug completely over and photograph the entire reverse. This is the single most valuable image for a rug specialist.

The back reveals:

• Hand-knotted vs machine-made: Individual knots are visible on genuine pieces; machine-made rugs show uniform rows or a backing layer
• Knot type: Persian (asymmetric) vs Turkish (symmetric) — helps establish regional origin
• Construction quality: Knot density, pile tension, warp and weft visibility
• Age indicators: Natural darkening of the foundation, visible warp thread oxidation in older pieces
• Condition: Repairs are often more visible on the reverse

Use the same lighting as the front. Photograph the entire back — not just a section.

Shot 3: The Detail Close-Up

A tight shot that captures what the full-frame photos can't. Choose whichever is most informative for your specific rug:

• Pile depth: Photograph the pile from a low angle (almost level with the floor) to show how much pile height remains
• Fringe: Show where fringe meets the rug body — this helps us confirm whether it's original structural fringe or added
• Border detail: The outer border pattern is often key to regional attribution
• Labels or signatures: Any woven-in signatures, paper labels, retailer tags, or country-of-origin stamps — photograph these clearly
• Damage areas: If there are stains, worn spots, repairs, or moth damage, show them clearly. Honest documentation builds trust and speeds the process

Measurements — Include Them Every Time

Size is one of the biggest single factors in resale demand and pricing. Always include:

• Length × width in feet and inches (or metres)
• Whether fringe is included or not in those measurements — this matters and affects value calculations
• If the rug is an unusual shape (round, octagonal, runner), note the dimensions clearly

You don't need a professional tape measure. A regular household tape or even counting paces gives us enough to work with at the quotation stage.

Show Condition Honestly

Please photograph damage clearly and honestly. This includes:

• Stains (any type — show the extent clearly)
• Pet damage — chewing, staining, pile pulling
• Moth damage — visible as small bald patches, usually near the edges or borders
• Previous repairs — areas that have been rewoven or patched
• Dry rot or brittleness in the foundation
• Heavy pile wear or bald areas

Honest condition documentation builds trust and avoids delays or renegotiations later. For antique pieces in particular, damage rarely eliminates value — age and rarity often outweigh condition. We explain every factor in our offer.

Frequently Asked Questions